![]() The color should lighten up a bit as it ages. Hypertufa can take months to fully cure but can be carefully handled in a day. Anything to make it look more natural since nothing is a perfectly smooth shape.Ĭover to let it harden up overnight or longer to fully cure. This actually makes the prop more portable since it will be lighter to carry.like a sewer manhole cover.ĭetail your stone by randomly pressing on it, making scratches, daubing with other rocks or concrete fragments. But when I found it wasn't really sticking to the window screening, Plan B was to just make a faux stone cap. I would be able to cover around the sides of the box with hypertufa to build up the height. The plan was to create a big stone for the sword. I was able to pull it off the bottom after the initial hardening. The window screen mesh was too fine for the hypertufa to settle in and embed the mesh into the cement mix. Use larger hardware cloth or wire mesh as your "rebar". I used two scrap pieces of aluminum window screen as my reinforcement mesh to form the rest of the stone. I also did some scanning with MoreTerra in 8 different worlds and as far as I can tell none of them have an enchanted sword, meaning that the chance is incredibly large. I can hereby confirm that the enchanted sword-in-rock does NOT light up when under the effect of a spelunker potion. ![]() This allows us to mold in a slot for the sword. That's a good idea, so I decided to do just that. I wrapped it all in packing film stretch wrap to keep out the water from the cement mix. I created a form for my stone by propping up a scrap piece of the sword moulding inserted into a cardboard box. Too much water is no good and will weaken the cement bond. If it holds you will have added the right amount of water. Mix it in a wait a few minutes for the cement powder to activate.Īdd enough water to get a moist crumbly mix. Don't work with bare hands.Īdd a part of water. Wet cement is alkaline so it will irritate your skin. Wear a dust mask and rubber gloves to protect yourself from the dust and cement. I used a rake to mix all the dry ingredients first. ![]() Use a mixing tub or wheelbarrow to hold all of your ingredients. Work over a tarp or covering to contain the mess that follows. There are also concrete color pigments and acrylic additives to really optimize your concrete for the outdoor frost or environment conditions. You can also add in a part of sand and a handful of special fiberglass or polyester fibers for reinforcement. There are many recipes for the proper hypertufa mix but usually about 1 part cement to 1-1.5 parts of peat moss, 1-1.5 parts of perlite/vermiculite. At least that is easier to carry than an 60-90 lb bag of cement or concrete mix from the home center. I had some leftover portland cement when the porch was repaired. ![]() I already had a big block of peat moss to use for gardening. I had worked with GFRC concrete for garden ornaments before so hypertufa would be fun to try out. Originally I needed to make some kind of freestanding patio umbrella holder so this project would make a good prototype. I wanted to experiment with hypertufa since this stone was going to be used as a garden ornament outdoors. ![]()
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